| Our
First "Excursion" was in the town in which we were staying, Ste.
Mere Eglise
|
One
of the beautiful stained glass windows depicts the paratroopers as
warriors on that fateful D-Day night. The inscription below reads,
"THEY HAVE COME BACK" in English (and Latin also, I believe).
|
 |
|
Next was a trip I had always wanted to make...to Bayeaux to see the tapestry. It includes scenes of the battle in 1066, a decisive battle for the Norman forces, led by William the Conqueror. |  |
| The
Hedgerows
|
After returning from Bayeux, Tim and I decided to explore the Norman countryside around Ste. Mere Eglise on our own. We were not disappointed. The breezy fields were green, and what was left of the infamous "hedgerows" staggered our imaginations. The countryside looked so peaceful. It was so difficult to imagine the fear, hostility and dying that took place in these serene surroundings only 56 years before. | The
huge gun emplacement at Azeville
|
|
Kathy stands at one of the "Liberty" markers just outside the town of Edmondeville. I didn't realize the town was so picturesque until I looked at the picture.
|
The
photo on the right is near the place where Earl was wounded the first
time. He received a piece of flak in his hand and in his back. Thank goodness he was carrying his half-shelter on his back and was spared a penetrating wound. The huge Nazi artillery center is only one kilometer down the road--at Azeville. This was probably their destination. |
 |
Periers is the home of Henri and Janet Levaufre, an incredible couple who have been the French brother and sister to the members of the 90th Division (Infantry). I met Henri and Janet at one of the 90th Division reunions...I'm not sure which, and was instantly struck with their humbleness and their genuineness. I couldn't imagine a French couple so interested in our soldiers, and so willing to give so much of their time, effort and finances to document and befriend every person involved with the 90th! |
We
were then to meet with the 90th Division's official French historian,
Henri Levaufre to visit a number of sites that were particularly
interesting to us. A personal, day-long tour! Who else would
do this but a true friend?!
The statue shown in these photos is located in Periers, and was brought to reality by Henri and Janet. It is in honor of the 90th Division! I didn't realize that Henri had created a whole wonderful day's tour for us, beginning in Periers, continuing to the Utah Beach Museum, to Joganville, to Chateau de Fontenay, to Hill 122, on a splendid drive through tiny back roads and villages in the heart of Normandy, and ending at the birthday party in Ste. Mere Eglise! It was an opportunity that Lillian started, and Henri completed, and we all are MUCH richer for. |
 |
 |
Henri Levaufre |
Henri even invited us to his home and museum! |
| The
Chateau de Fontenay was the place Henri placed on our itinerary
immediately. I wasn't sure exactly why it was so important,
but I trusted Henri, and he did not let me down! After I returned home, I was looking through some information sent to me by J. Q. Lynd a number of years ago. J. Q. Lynd is/was a professor at Oklahoma State University who was in the 90th Division, 359th Regiment, Company A, while Dad was in Company B. In 1987 he sent me a manuscript for a book he was writing about the Chateau, since he was one of the people to finally help establish an Allied position there. I knew Dad was wounded during the night of 10 June 1944, and knew it was somewhere in this area, but when I read the following, I knew why I was so glad I had trusted Henri! è |
"The
1st platoon (Lt. Lynd), A Co. 359 Inf. was then ordered to Chateau de
Fontenay from Joganville. This unit was to attack east through the
Chateau area late on June 10...Both aerial bombardment and heavy artillery
fire fell in the area with the platoon assault that proceeded until
near midnight." |
|
| When
the trip was in the planning, Lillian mentioned that she thought we should
see Hill 122. She stated that Earl had said he was there, and
wouldn't say much more about it, other than it was a terrible
place. For some reason, she inferred that it was here that he had
been taken as a POW for three days. So we asked Henri to make this one of
the two US-requested stops during our day-long trip. I was glad it
was requested. The trip to and away from Hill 122 was simply
Normandy French! We drove up and down roads so narrow that if we had
met another car, we would have had to back up (or they would have)!
We went through villages that were no more than four or five houses! But the Hill...it was verdant! It was so hard to imagine that hundreds of men lost their lives on its slopes! Below I have quoted from the text of the citation given to the 1st Battalion, 359th Infantry Regiment by the War Department in 1946, and signed by Dwight D. Eisenhower (Chief of Staff). |
||
 
Hill 122 (taken in two shots) |
||
Lillian, Gary, Kathy and Becky stood on a very windy Utah Beach (notice the nature-inspired coiffures!). Beautiful sand, green dune grass, hazy blue sky, and pounding surf stood in stark contrast to the terrors experienced 56 years before. |
Inside
the Utah Beach Museum auditorium, is a hall of photographs. At the
lowest level, adjacent to the speaker's area, is an enlargement of a photo
from 6 June 1944. It is this photograph which was the cause for
great excitement in the museum in 1964 when Lillian and Earl were
visiting, and Lillian recognized Earl in the photo. He is the
tallest of the men standing behind the wall on the ship, and is to our
left of the man with the "chalk-9" on his helmet. Tristan
never met his Grandpa Nielsen, and Tad was only two and one-half when Earl
passed away, but they were together in spirit on this day--22 July 2000.
ê |
Tristan was one of the first out of the cars to head toward the Utah Beach Museum. It was originally housed in the stark remnants of the German bunker which was lodged in the dunes. The bunker is still there, but the entire location has been renovated, and it's hard to even tell it was one of the "impregnable pillboxes" that was the subject of one of Earl's "war stories". |
|
Just inland from the Utah Beach Museum is a restaurant/souvenir shop/internet cafe (!). It is all housed in one of the two (you can see both here) houses which were on the beach the day of the invasion. Tad logged on at this historic house and both he and I checked our e-mail! How times have changed! |
 |
Inside the museum, on the beach side, is a "guest" book which all of our family members signed. Gary spent many thoughtful minutes carefully crafting his entry. |
Henri, our impeccable host, arranged a presentation of a special medallion to Lillian, as a spouse of a D-Day soldier. The moment was a total surprise, and very moving. Thank you once again, Henri, for your astounding thoughtfulness! |
Gary on Utah
Beach, Normandy, France. |
Standing on the beach at low tide was a thought-provoking moment. From left are Tad, Tim, Tristan, Becky, Gary and Lillian, April, Evy and Sarah. I'm taking the picture, and Karen and Jessie were with us in spirit. |
|
I can't remember Dad not telling his "war" stories, in fact, I spent one of the last nights of his life with him, assuring him that he was not a POW, and that he didn't have to hide his watch so it wouldn't be confiscated. That was not a story--it was real to him! I have other brave veteran uncles, a brave World War I grandfather as well as my brave father, and I am indebted to them beyond what I can say. But when I saw what war did to my brave father's mind, day after day, night after night, I resolved to work for other ways to resolve conflicts. Normandy has become my "peace garden". | 
|
 |
 |
 |
| Lillian and Becky celebrate at the Hotel Ste. Mere. You can't believe the amount and deliciousness of the food...or the friendliness and helpfulness of the Hotel staff! It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience! Thanks, Lillian, for making this party a possibility! | Although
Becky is certainly not old enough yet to wear purple, this page is
dedicated to her and the birthday bash celebrated in beautiful (if not
windy) Normandy.
|
Here comes Henri to give Kathy a taste of his special French (what else?) wine! My, my, what a generous fellow! Thank you, Henri! |
The day after our Normandy/90th Division tour with Henri, Gary and his family headed to Paris. However, the other two children and their sons decided a visit to Omaha Beach/Pont du Hoc and the American Cemetery would be appropriate. So off we headed on a very windy day (please excuse the coiffures!) |
The cemetery was our first stop. I will always be glad we visited this beautiful, but somber, place. Tad was quite moved. He would walk from headstone to headstone, and when he found a 90th Division soldier, he would say, "Mom! I found another one!". |
Finally he had found so many, he came to me and said, "Mom, I keep wondering if Grandpa tried to help any of these guys,". We hugged and decided out of all the 90th Division guys here, that yes, he probably had tried to help at least some. |
At Pont du Hoc the sea lay foaming below us. The thought of anyone climbing, no less fighting, their way up the cliffs was almost unbelievable. |
The blockhouses to the right seemed nearly impregnable, as we walked through. Tad even tried the viewing post, as you can see. Razor wire is still everywhere. |
You can see the extensive network of bunkers throughout the area. Huge artillery impact craters, some between 20 and 30 feet deep, still pock the grounds. The person who said "War is Hell" must have been right! |
 |
We decided we should have a taste of more French food in the port city of Cherbourg. While it took the Allies a number of days to reach this beautiful town, it took us a matter of minutes. We found a port-side restaurant in the rainy evening and went in. What a treat! Great food and wonderful ambiance! It was a great way to spend our last evening together in France! |  |
 |
 |
|
